Reprinted From The Correspondent (The American Business Council Magazine) Summer 2011

In the early morning of August 3rd, 1990, the day after Kuwait was invaded by Iraq, Kuwaitis from areas around Washington, DC converged in front of the White House to hold a demonstration asking President George Bush Senior for his help for their country. Most Kuwaitis, their friends and families who marched that day, held faces which revealed much; bloodshot eyes and blank, lifeless stares. Their world had just been changed overnight. Many people were crying softly. It was solemnly quiet and the air was full of grief. "Have you heard from....?" "How do I find out about...?" "I think my mother was going to travel..." "What do we do now?"

It was the beginning of a long desperate seven months of agony, rumors, and the unknown. No one knew how their families and friends were faring inside Kuwait; none knew their future. None of the students that day knew what would happen next. Phone lines to Kuwait were down. It was too soon to know what the legitimate government of Kuwait would do.

True to the nature of Kuwaitis who use humor at even the most difficult of moments (often to fight off discomfort); Jasim K marched along side of his friends asking if they thought they could get jobs in the 7-11. They didn't know if they would receive salaries or how they would live.

Some of my friends, like former MP Basil Al-Rashed, blindly boarded planes went to join Kuwaiti forces in Saudi Arabia during the first few weeks following the invasion. I heard later that MP Al-Rashed served with the Kuwaitis on the Saudi border. I am incredibly proud of him (as are others) for taking the initiative to pioneer it alone during those early days of uncertainty.

These were not the days of the internet. E-mail didn't become popular until after the war was long over. The phone lines to the Kuwaiti embassy in Washington DC were jammed and information was hard to come by. However, almost immediately offices were set up to form assistance teams. Information trickled out of Kuwait, sometimes from people escaping; sometimes from ham radio operators. Lists were compiled of people, their whereabouts and their circumstances (including, heartbreakingly, names of those who had been tortured or taken as hostages). Grass roots newspapers like, "Ku-waiting for News" (which was written and distributed by an American woman married to a Kuwaiti) provided information in English to friends/relatives of Kuwaitis in the States. These were the days of no e-mail; distribution was by fax or "snail mail" system. People made copies and copies of copies and the information proved invaluable to those, like me, who were waiting to hear what was happening.

Citizens for a Free Kuwait (CFK) began operations to coordinate volunteer efforts. People started to flow in to show their support and to see how they could help. I walked in and the volunteer behind the reception desk thanked for my gesture, but responded that they didn't require additional volunteers. I stayed (by force of will) and worked with CFK throughout the occupation (and any other organization that I thought I could assist) in any way I could.

Other small entities popped up; including my own, Kuwait Link. I ran a 24 hour phone line (which was really just my home phone next to my bed) and linked people with inquiries to resources. Some of my greatest accomplishments during the 7 month occupation came through phone calls I received (often in the middle of the night) from people who needed assistance or from the media (like CNN) wanting to speak to Kuwaitis for stories. Everyone who had a love for Kuwait during that time did what they could: Kuwaiti Association to Defend War Victims, Solidarity International for Kuwait, to name a few. The Kuwait Emergency Recovery Program started long before the ground war ever started. In an office on K Street in Washington, DC, Dr. Rola Dashti often spent her nights sleeping behind her desk in a sleeping bag on the floor, and starting her work again in the morning.

I made friends with many people during that time and I either I never took their names or I didn't want to; believing that the cause was more important than anything. Most didn't want credit for their individual actions; collectively they were named as a united group of people who supported the liberation of Kuwait.

There was a group of women that I met during this time who were some of the strongest people I have ever known; many of whom are still nameless to me and many who are not written about in Kuwaiti history books nor mentioned in speeches.

I volunteered with some of these women during the early days at CFK. We later went on to join others who wanted to go to Kuwait to help. We had no idea how we would go; or how we would help, but we began taking emergency first aid and trauma courses at the American Red Cross (through sponsorship and blessing of the Kuwaiti embassy). Lail Dehrab was my training partner. Her friend, Mandy Hakim, was also in our group. We learned how to handle a variety of battlefield traumas like gunshot wounds and burns. Some volunteered at local ER's to gain experience and quick knowledge.

We were later taken to Quantico Marine Corps Base to learn how to fire various types of small weapons that we might encounter on the ground in Kuwait for our personal security. I still have a scar on my right hand from improper use of a Magnum 44 during the training: It is my only "battle" wound, but I am proud of it. Base officials looked on our group with genuine concern and compassion. At the base, Um Salah, MP Dr. Rola Dashti's mother, fired her machine gun on rapid fire next to me (she had one son in Kuwait with the Resistance and another son who went with the US forces as a volunteer and wanted to be prepared to assist if she could). Balkhees, a small woman who was the daughter of a Kuwaiti Brigadier General, walked over to the biggest, meanest marine she could find and asked him to teach her how to fight. Twenty years later, I still remember that tiny 19 year old woman and the raw determination on her face. All the Kuwaiti women I knew at the time were adamant to help in any way that they could. Several faced opposition from their families, but they continued regardless.

In 1991, at the McLean Hilton in Virginia, Kuwaiti students from around the US gathered to volunteer as interpreters with the US forces headed for Kuwait. I was the only American to go with my group of female friends. The students walked away from their lifestyles and their educations in the States and boarded busses headed to Fort Dix in New Jersey for basic training.

After it all, I was not allowed to go because, as an American, I would have been a liability to the group. I would have to join the military for at least 4 years and probably never get to Kuwait . I said goodbye and watched what happened in the news. I prayed for all.

Cindus Al-Sarraf was pictured on the front page of a newspaper shortly thereafter. Another slight woman, holding a grenade in her hand and running around a barricade; she was the face of Kuwaitis (especially the women) who went to fight for their country. I later asked Lail Dehrab what the most difficult part of the basic training was, "The gas tent. They made us take off our gas masks and breathe to get used to it and to know what it was like. It was awful. Everybody got sick," she said with a giggle.

It is a little-known fact that twenty five Kuwaiti women volunteered as interpreters with the US Forces. Like their Kuwaiti brothers, they were all bestowed with the honorary rank of "Sergeant" by the Kuwaiti military during their service. Most of these women are now mothers and wives (some still hold onto their dog tags and combat boots). Seeing them now, you would never imagine (with their manicured nails and tidy hairstyles) what their lives were like during the occupation or what they did for Kuwait. I still find it hard to believe, but it was a different time and a different country.

As we sit today and have lunch or talk about recent events in Kuwait, all of us who remember (men and women alike) have a hard time believing how much has changed since then and what we have all lived through. I sometimes look at Kuwaiti students now and wonder what they would do for their country.... but I already know the answer: You do what you have to do. You go on and you hope that someday you have a chance to thank others who have worked or fought by your side.

...And, twenty years later, you might be able to write an article and remind a few people of what you remember from those days.

Every Ramadan we are inundated by articles and features highlighting the proper means of fasting, alms-giving, praying and other essential pillars of Islam. I am not going to do that.

Most citizens are decent, God-fearing individuals trying to improve their lot and the lives of their loved ones. I believe the Kuwaiti character in essence is one of integrity and generosity -- we are a charitable people, evident by the Ramadan dinners we sponsor and the alms we pay (Zakat) -- indeed we are almost always the first to rush in aid of others, local or internationally. We should be proud of this trait.

We are, however, far from perfect. Praying, fasting and spending alms on the needful are not enough to qualify us or other societies as superior Muslims.

Our Prophet (Peace Be Upon Him) stated, 'The best amongst you are those who have the best manners and character.'

Recently, we have all been witness to a drastic deterioration in the way people treat one another and conduct their lives -- a certain segment lacks the proper traits, either due to lack of decent rearing, non-implementation of laws (which they view as 'toothless') or the gradual radicalism in society which encourages gender segregation, non-tolerance of foreigners and non-Islamic ideals and views.

Our society seems to have lost its moral compass; gaze around you, materialism and power is valued over integrity and honesty; harshness in tone is embraced, over humility and etiquette. An individual's caliber is immaterial; what matters is how one can 'benefit' another, the extent of personal influence and how many laws one can break with impunity.

On the behavioral level, this is evident all around us, nothing is respected; people don't wait their turn, they drive erratically, they walk into elevators without waiting for others to exit, they are rude to foreign workers, they disturb women in malls and public places, they cause a ruckus in movie theatres, road and traffic signs are ignored, municipality laws are ignored, smoking signs are ignored. The list goes on...

This personal methodology is poisoning society -- we are all victims of and responsible for this collective, ethical Achilles' heel.

Follow the law, pay your bills on time, stand in a queue, follow road signs and you're regarded as a dimwit.

These days you get a taste of good manners when you travel to countries like the United States and the European Union where parents educate their children 'not to point at others', 'scream' and wait patiently for their turn in a queue, saying 'please' and 'thank you.'

Even progressive GCC states such as the UAE -- eager to attract foreigners and investment -- do not tolerate any law breaking: speeding tickets affect the validity of your car license and insurance premiums; if unruly youths disturb or sexually harass women in public, security arrests them, shaves their heads, splashes their mugs in the papers, for example. People think twice before embarking on any moves which might offend the personal space or respect of others.

It's the atmosphere of tolerance, openness and the implementation of laws that truly make an Islamic society, not the number of mosques built or how many foreigners converted to Islam.

Where is Islam if society deems Expired Food Merchants and MPs and their 'state benefactors' -- who dabble in tens of millions of corrupt money -- for example, as 'untouchables'?

People's behavior forces one to ditch the law because the law is not really on one's side, it's not really being enforced -- it's an illusion. Additionally, we need to start embarking on 'naming and shaming' lawbreakers and criminals instead of shielding their identities from the public, who have a right to know.

The state apparatus -- traditionally infatuated with forming committees, hosting seminars and running bloated campaigns -- needs to execute them properly, namely by implementing a two-track initiative: On the one hand formulating an awareness campaign on 'Islamic Moderation And Tolerance' by highlighting the work of groundbreaking pioneers and world-renowned Moderate Islamic voices such as our very own Dr Naif Al-Mutawa (creator of the comic book series 'The 99') and Dr Reza Aslan, author of 'No God But God,' among other accomplished intellectual luminaries -- so that younger generations may be able to benefit from their stimulating, refreshing views.

Simultaneously, on the other track enforcing Civic and Constitutional Laws preaching freedom of speech, equality and appropriate justice -- so individuals may learn to respect state laws and tolerate differing views -- they need to realize grave repercussions are incoming -- leading imprisonment or worse -- if they indulge in any lawbreaking or negative antisocial behavior. Ultimately, the State needs to step up to the plate and protect society, lest individuals take the law into their own hands and mob rule surfaces.

Islam without proper laws, justice for all and proper education is abridged, toothless -- as a society we need to instill the values amongst ourselves and future generations, not just censure 'external influences,' the media or the West for our ills (many which are self created). Moreover, we need as a community to re-examine the way we conduct ourselves and treat others -- to realize that no good can come from a society that obliquely persuades fraud, dishonesty and ill-treatment of others.

AS RECENT as a few weeks ago a mantle of anxiety, melancholy and, dare I say, fatalism was shrouding the youthful face of the Arab world. Anyone who socialized, worked with or communicated with the young through Twitter, Blogs or other social media sites could sense a gradual erosion of the spirit, albeit one that fueled a stirring sort of activism, which wasn't palpable in the past.

There was a growing disconnect between governments and the young, a feeling that the priorities of the state did not synchronize with their own desires; anxieties stemming from corruption affecting their job and financial stability, their environment and quality of life.

A glimmer of hope, however, gleams on the horizon; recent tumultuous developments in Tunisia and Egypt -- leading to the removal of their long-standing leaders through peaceful civil disobedience -are a turning point, a testimony to this. Idyllic eras, in government eyes, who manipulated media via their state television, state news agencies, state cabinet press releases and newspapers -- laying the foundations of their unfeasible utopian state -- have come to an end.

The fusion of technology and the internet via social media sites such as Facebook and Twitter, as well as the revolutionary, divisive Wiki Leaks, are shedding light on the Arab world's traditionally hidden, obscure cigar-and-aperitifs political backrooms where both blunt talk and cagey subtleties of diplomacy are king -- shoving much needed political reform into the faces of traditionally closed, autocratic states.

The young are mobilizing swiftly, one step of the government, bypassing blocked sites, proxies and IP's, releasing new information concerning fraud, human rights abuses and Machiavellian political machinations.
The fact that our very own Kuwait Twitter feed is an resourceful amalgamation of activists, MP's, journalists, bloggers, and other members of society is a testament to the power of social media and the rapid flow of information among participants and instant feedback.

Incidents such as the unsettling attempts by authorities to infiltrate, monitor and intimidate Kuwaiti Twitter users via 'moles' members of State Security is a direct violation of the Constitution, notably Article 39 which states: "Freedom of communication by post, telegraph, and telephone and the secrecy thereof is guaranteed; accordingly, censorship of communications and disclosure of their contents are not permitted except in the circumstances and manner specified by law."

Even the above ominous challenge, however, was met with acerbic wit and fortitude by Kuwaiti men and women of Twitter, cracking jokes at ghostly Security operatives, "I am getting a cheeseburger, can I order you one?" or "I am logging off now, will you be alright without me?"

Undeniably, Kuwait is not immune to the 'perfect storm' (as US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton recently affirmed) concerning social and political change. The toying with people's liberties in Kuwait, frustration with government, rise in political prisoners, and the increase in corruption has fueled this rage against the machine, the catalyst that has also lead individuals to social network sites to exchange information, blow steam and highlight any injustices they may have encountered or heard of -- not to mention deride any statements or actions by self-deluded, ostentatious officials, who have contributed little to this country's development, merely epitomizing Iago's classic line to Roderigo in 'Othello': "Put money in thy purse!"

Government statements including those of our Council of Ministers highlighting 'brotherly nations,' 'exterior threats,' and 'steering the Kuwaiti ship safely to shore,' have become absurd verbal footnotes, relished as hors d'oeuvres of glee at any gathering -- or Twitter feed -- treated as comedy gold due to the fact that young people aren't naïve or dim-witted, they're wired, mopping snippets of information every minute; aware that the issue of 'security' in oppressive regimes has always been exploited as a justification to curb freedoms and hamper queries into fraudulence and mismanagement. They aren't going to buy into that kool aid anymore.

Arab regimes need to wake up to the fact that their systems are analogous; inequality and corruption are the common denominators, directly permeated into Kleptocracies -- regimes that utilize control fraud (bureaucracy and forgery, for example) to exploit governmental corruption to extend personal wealth and power of government officials alongside a specific inner circle or class via misappropriation of state funds and natural resources -- at the cost of the rest of the population.

Fifty years following its independence from the United Kingdom, twenty years following its liberation from Iraq, Kuwait remains a 'closed' state -- wary of foreign investment and participation, unable or unwilling to even free a portion of 90 percent of unused government land to the private sector -- more willing to invest its riches outside the state than internally, limiting and keeping a tight lid on who benefits from its development -- a Kleptocracy under the guise of a Constitutional monarchy. The Young Activists and Wired Intellectuals are aware of this; God bless them -- they are nobody's fools, and they realize that we are not impervious to recent geopolitical developments.

Arab Leadership -- the management of a country -- should not be on a lofty platform, impervious to censure. The term 'public servant' applies to everyone in government from the lowliest clerk to the head of state. Governments, their decision-makers, their entities, their ministries, their employees, are there to serve their people; not vice-versa.

The Arab people are leery of the usual gaudy summits, conferences, communal, sycophantic lip service between their leaders and their extravagant hand-outs to one another. Arab governments should pay heed to the aspirations of their people or regret the consequences. Ultimately, no power anywhere can restrain the fervent, conscientious spirit of the young -- demographically, the majority -- particularly those who have nothing to lose.

A golden opportunity exists now for all regimes to reassess their modus operandi, correct past errors, and realign their policies to erect healthy, dynamic states that focus on elevating their people, not their own persistent survival.

Respect for human rights, democracy (embodied in our Diwaniyas and later in our Constitution) freedom of speech, gender equality, and religious and cultural tolerance - all these traits were ingrained in the Kuwaiti culture and person for hundreds of years.

These days we witness media reports of MPs attempting to pass legislation to 'ban bikinis,' 'female sportswear,' or completely eradicating the legal and constitutional presence of female Parliamentarians - as if all major problems of the State: Ahmadi gas leaks, Mishrif Station pumping sewage into our waters, expired meat, visa trafficking, development and all the other major issues were already dealt with.

Some of those same individuals wouldn't even run for Parliament in the 1970s because they regarded democratic public office as 'UnIslamic.' Now, they are not just attempting to run the show, they are attempting to re-write history and modify the political and social structure of the State, by using Democracy as a means to eradicate Democracy.

These same 'religious' MPs who abhor even the National Anthem and refuse even to stand in respect to their State, these 'Sharia Sheikhs of Swing' who observe female groups and file police reports about 'lesbian gatherings' - even though the assembly of women was at a wedding - and who attempt to free rapists and child molesters from police stations, visa traffickers, expired food merchants and other lawbreakers and criminals, not to mention defend terrorists who threaten the State and the troops of our Allies; hypocrisy at its finest.

Additionally, treating women, employees and compatriots with disdain and disrespect looking the other way whilst corruption seeps and takes hold of society - nullifies any Sharia degree or religious gravitas an individual might have.

Let us be candid, If Kuwait truly was a civilized society the MPs would have been sued, prosecuted and kicked out of Parliament for such inflammatory-jumping-the-gun statements and for attempting to influence criminal investigations. But politics is politics and deals are made, always at the people's expense. Furthermore, tribes and political groups - some who report to and coordinate with foreign entities - currently dwarf the power of the State (much of this is the State's doing).

Right wing critics who slam progressive Kuwaitis for encouraging respect for other cultures and religions are dismissed as "agents of Western propaganda" or 'Liberals' - for wanting to highlight those ideals and reinforce them - are obviously unfamiliar with Kuwait's history and background, and are apparently not familiar with the basic tenets of Islam which value and guarantee the aforementioned rights. Maybe some are unfamiliar with history because they just got the Kuwaiti citizenship; others are familiar but think we were living in the Dark Ages then.

In any case, they are certainly not familiar with Kuwait's real 'tradition and customs.' Kuwait was more of a trading and commercial hub before oil than it is now; one of the many reasons why Kuwait was a merchant city and trading post - a haven of culture and commerce for hundreds of years even prior to the advent of oil - was tolerance and openness.

Men and women shared equal responsibilities; toiling away from dawn till dusk, women taking care of the household, educating their children and were active in producing goods (i.e. embroidering the 'Sadu') and in commerce - they kept things together, while their partners embarked on six month or longer pearl diving or trading voyages to places as far as India and Africa. They were partners in the true sense of the word. They were equals.

We were no less Muslim then. In some ways, we were superior Muslims; we weren't arrogant like we are now, with that wretched 'holier than thou' attitude; we were broke - desperate for sources of income. Kuwaitis had to interact with other cultures, learn their language and customs; it was an issue of survival, whether it was opening a trade route for water, dates, gold or otherwise. We needed others and that taught us humility and real tolerance of cultures, peoples and religions.

That great Kuwaiti attribute is being diminished by the day in this day and age.

Ultimately, Islam should not be measured by the amount of Mosques that are built (even though this is a blessing to any society), how many expatriates are converted, or by the amount of Quran memorization schools (even though this is a noble activity) but by treating your fellow men and women, irrespective of whether they are native or expatriate, with respect and dignity, accepting their views and their way of life even though you may disagree with them and by combating inequity and corruption.

That is real test of democracy and Islam is all about Democracy, its real targets are oppression, corruption, intolerance, injustice, not impeding the construction of Churches, wiping out pictures of the Virgin Mary in magazines, removing Christmas trees, impeding foreign National Day celebrations, removing horse statues from a Chinese bistro at the Avenues, forced segregation and so forth.

It is truly outlandish when Kuwaitis - true citizens of the world with their astute, cultured predispositions - have to travel to a neighboring Gulf state to see a banned film, watch a concert or buy a book. It boggles the mind. Thirty years ago we did all that here and more, without any problem - which means our original 'traditions and customs' were much more broadminded.

If only people took the time to learn about our beloved Prophet Mohammed (Peace Be Upon Him) and his kind, good-humored, patient, compassionate and tolerant ways, instead of blindly following self-imposed Judges, Juries and Executioners of society - who pass ethical judgments on so-called 'moral pariahs,' restricting people's freedom of expression and worship and stifling their personal choice - Kuwait would be in a much healthier shape than it is now.

What's happening these days in Kuwait is tragic. The potential for greatness is there but in order for us to meet the vast economic, cultural and intellectual benchmarks, our current State-wooing of extremists alongside their Parliament-supported xenophobia has to finally end and justice applied to all.

For a country that possesses a Constitution which safeguards civil liberties and freedom of speech, Kuwait sporadically sure likes toying with those liberties such as tentatively banning the Blackberry service, shutting down You Tube, impeding public gatherings and marches, banning and censoring books, literature, films and magazines which are available elsewhere in the Gulf.

This week according to media reports, and highlighted extensively in local Weblogs and Twitter, a palpable growing outcry is directed at the tentative plans by The Ministry of Information, Ministry of Social Affairs and Ministry of Finance to outlaw public photography and relegate it to journalism purposes only. This has allegedly resulted in the ban of Digital Single Lens Reflex Cameras (DSLRs) in public places. If this charade is true, then it bodes ill for this country, another regressive move into the annals of ignorance.

During the 1980s video cameras and photographic equipment were also shunned by the authorities. I remember visiting Failaka in 1985 and being confronted by a military officer who demanded I hand in my bulky video camera until I left the island. These types of infringements in the name of security were insignificant - we still had an attempt on HH the Amir, explosions at Foreign Embassies in Kuwait and an actual invasion.

Why does this country always attempt to stifle home-grown talent? Banning cameras in public places is demoralizing to all the passionate, talented young Kuwait men and women who have excelled in this field and love their hobby, not to mention visitors who attempt to document their travels here. Moreover, banning DSLR cameras is irrational and counterproductive if you think about it; in this day and age of iPhones, Blackberries, 5 MP plus camera phones, Google Earth and the like, anyone can take photograph of anything, quietly, without fanfare, which makes the potential DSLR ban even more preposterous.

I have just returned from a trip to Dubai where I witnessed dozens of tourists proudly using their cameras to document Burg Khalifa and the other picturesque locations. No one stopped them, impeded them or asked them what they were doing and you know why, because they respect people's rights and are intent on making their country more appealing. UAE is able to manage security matters confidently because they have proper security and ID processes in place: eye scanners at airports and entry points, proper electronic government, high fines for breaking the law, a brilliant CCTV system in place in every street corner (not the shoddy black and white choppy, streaming-like quality of the limited equipment we have here) - they truly invest in their infrastructure, maintain it and upgrade it.

If Kuwait is serious about its security then it should invest in the same caliber of CCTV and not the bargain basement tenders that usually go towards ineffective systems (i.e. Highway signs with the useless 'no mobile' plasma screen) belonging to members of the matching ministry who want a 'piece of the action'. The sad reality is the government sector here would rather ban something than actually strive to improve it through sheer hard work and effective processes. It's just easier to ban; a question of laziness and neglect.

Needless to say, Kuwait seems unfazed when foreign jets infiltrate our airspace and take aerial shots of our oil refineries and military installations, or when agents and their local conspirators are found to possess blueprints and photographs of said installations, but no, lets go after the 'little guy', the amateur photographer or tourist on the street taking pictures. It's a hypocritical, spineless action by the authorities.

Moreover, I suspect the issue is not just relegated to security, a myriad of reasons could have led to the support of this ban, fundamentalists who felt cameras and pictures are a 'Tool of the Devil,' government officials and ministries disgraced at seeing shots of Kuwait's dilapidated infrastructure, environment and mismanagement on weblogs, internet forums and magazines. You cannot conceal the squalid side of Kuwait; it is there for everyone to see.

Furthermore, this law against public photography will not be enforced, just as seatbelt, no mobile while driving, no litter, no smoking areas, and other 'laws' cannot be enforced in this Land of Confusion.